LEJOG DAY 8: Into the Highlands

Tip of the Day: Scotland is chillier than England. I only had my cycle shorts for the entire journey, and this was fine for me, but in Scotland we both needed to wear full gloves (I prefer mittens actually) and because I struggle to fall asleep in the cold, I even took my down feather lined booties for inside my sleeping bag!

Our route out of Glasgow was nothing like our route in. We followed the Clyde for a long stretch with the odd runner for company in the chilly morning air, then hopped onto a disused railway line which took us into Dumbarton with little effort. With only my phone to rely on for navigation, it was even more important to keep the battery topped up and my plug to USB device had gained a fault. Amazingly, not only did Dumbarton have a Costa Coffee open at 7:30, but just opposite a Poundland was already welcoming customers. With USB plug and Deep Heat purchased we made our along the beautiful River Leven and towards Loch Lomond.

We had already been told that you had to use the A82 around the Loch and so that was the road we took. Fast and pretty straight forward we made good speed, but never really got a good view of the famous bonnie bonnie banks and I did feel a bit disappointed. We took the hunted for a breakfast in Tarbet towards the North of the Loch and after being turned away by the hotel (we were too late) munched down panini outside the Bonnie and Ben café where we were joined by four other LEJOGers who had come up along the cycle path closer to the loch and enjoyed the views! With the cycle path terminating at Tarbet, it was onto the road for everyone heading north from here as the twists and turns became more frequent and tighter and a chance of mishap increased.

So far our journey had definitely been one of getting a job done, we were on a mission to John O’Grotes and nothing was going to stop that. But as we left Loch Lomond behind an encountered long climbs a sign appeared drawing us to the Falls of Falloch. I love a good waterfall and suggested we have a break. We arrived at the waterfalls and were not disappointed, not only was the cataract in good form, but a number of dare-devils decided to fling themselves from the top to the bottom just for our entertainment! All three made it back safely!

Impressive dip
Pour some sugar on me

Tyndrum was our lunch stop, and Judith’s recommendation of TJ’s American Diner was duly accepted with triple layered pancakes and burgers all wolfed down. Until this point the weather had held and the sun had even blessed us, but this changed as we headed passed the Bridge of Orchy and into Rannoch Moor. We were now deep in the highlands. Mountains over 1000 metres flanked us on all sides though their summits remained hidden in dark grey clouds. There was an air of foreboding about our journey ahead.

I wonder if Mordor had a welcome sign
Dance monkey

Few stops lay between us and our destination of Glen Coe. The climb continued and took us up to 350 metres with a big switchback to gain height over Loch Tulla. With a steady downhill into Glen Coe, the going should have been easy as we turned west, but the driving headwind made us fight for the miles. As we pulled over to admire the view of Buachaille Etive a hold up of traffic approached, not that we were the cause, but a cyclist with a support crew driving directly behind at his speed was holding back the motorists. I dinged my bell in solidarity (PS- get a bell, they are definitely worth it!). Even with the big views, he was out of sight promptly as we pushed on for the final few miles. The rain held off with only fleeting drizzle and we had set up our tent in a campsite before dinner which was taken at the Gathering which offered fabulous food and soon became packed. A top notch day!

Ready for a downpour

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